Vitamin C

in the form of Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

INCI: SODIUM ASCORBYL PHOSPHATE

Vitamin C and it's derivates

Vitamin C is one of the most common active ingredients for protecting the skin. Unfortunately, pure vitamin C is not particularly stable in cosmetic formulations and not safe to use on the skin either, especially in high concentrations.  

It already metabolizes in the outermost layer of the skin due to its high chemical activity.

It is also highly reactive with oxygen and iron (from pollution) so when reacting to iron, it can become a super-oxidant instead of an anti-oxidant. In this oxidized form, vitamin C causes redness and inflammation, which can lead to the formation of acne. 

Sodium ascorbyl phosphate is a stable, water-soluble vitamin C derivative, which also penetrates into the deeper skin layers. There, the skin's enzymes release the actual active ingredient - the vitamin C (ascorbic acid) itself - from the sodium ascorbyl phosphate.

Sodium ascorbyl phosphate, as opposed to pure ascorbic acid, is used as a treatment of acne.

Sodium ascorbyl phosphate is therefore extremely effective. One of its most outstanding properties is the ability to trap and neutralize free radicals or reactive oxygen species.

This is particularly evident for light-related (or environmental) skin aging. UVA radiation, in particular, causes the skin to age prematurely via the formation of free radicals and subsequent activation of collagen-degrading enzymes.

Vitamin C stimulates collagen formation, which in turn has the following effects:

  • Regeneration of the skin barrier,

  • Promoting skin elasticity,

  • Reducing the loss of moisture and

  • Reducing fine wrinkles.


Since vitamin C also inhibits or reduces the activity of the enzyme tyrosinase and thus melanin formation, it can also be used for skin lightening formulations (for example, against age spots).

Because it also acts against sweat-reducing and acne-causing bacteria, it is also recommended for deodorant formulations and treatment of blemishes and acne.

Further scientifically relevant research regarding vitamin C: