Rosehip seed oil

Rosa canina

INCI: ROSA CANINA SEED OIL

Another Natural Powerhouse

Rosehip seed oil is produced from the seeds of rosa canina. rosa canina (common name rosehip) is a rose species native to Europe, northwest Africa, and western Asia. It is a wild shrub from the Rosaceae family. 

Rosehip flowers

Rosehip seed oil contains a high percentage of polyunsaturated essential fatty acids.

Poly-unsaturated fatty acids:

  • 10-20% Oleic acid (C18:1)

  • 41-50% Cis-linoleic acid (C18:2 n-6)

  • 26-37% α-Linoleic acid (C18:3 n-3)

Saturated fatty acids:

  • 3-5.3% Palmitic acid (C16-0)

  • 1-3% Stearic acid (C18:0)

It also contains transretinoic acid, tannins, flavonoids, and β-carotene (Flores Ahumada DA, 2005). 

 

Rosehip Seed Oil Skin Benefits

Rosehip seed oil provides incredible benefits to the skin. The high nutritive content of rosehip seed oil and its natural corrective and cell regeneration properties make rosehip oil a must for cosmetology and dermatology treatments.

Rosehip seed oil has a significant action on the regulation of skin elasticity and skin moisture.

Essential fatty acids are a significant part of the cell membranes, to which they contribute permeability and elasticity.

These acids play an essential role in the formation of ceramides – the main lipids of the epidermis barrier – and are essential for the stability and function of the skin barrier (Flores Ahumada DA, 2005).

Emollients (mainly lipids and oil) enhance skin flexibility and have moisturizing and soothing actions.

These compounds repair the skin and influence skin permeability, thus improving the barrier function. Owing to their lipophilic nature, stearic, linoleic, oleic, linolenic and lauric acids are good emollients.

These fatty acids efficiently prevent water loss through the epidermis because of their occlusive properties.

A 1995 study showed that the linoleic acid and γ-linoleic acid produced structural changes in the epidermis, particularly in the horny layer which consequently reduced TEWL (Le Poole, H.A.C., 1995).

Fatty acid deficiency in humans causes desquamation, dry skin, loss of flexibility and loss of smoothness. Keratinization becomes disorganized, and the mitotic index and DNA synthesis are reduced.

Skin perspiration is noticeably increased. Skin lesions resulting from essential fatty acid deficiency can be healed by applying oils with a high percentage of these acids.

Therefore, these oils are ideal for the treatment of dry and wrinkled skin, and to promote wound healing by stimulating tissue regeneration (Holguera, M.C., 1993).

 

Regenerative Activity

Rosehip seed oil is rich in unsaturated fatty acids, linoleic and linolenic acids. They are involved in prostaglandin synthesis, defense mechanisms, membrane generation, growth and other cell regeneration processes. 

Researchers attribute the actions of rosehip seed oil especially to trans-retinoic acid because this compound has known anti-inflammatory activity, which improves cell irrigation. This way it accelerates tissue regeneration (Flores Ahumada DA, 2005; Gille et al, 1997).

Therefore, rosehip seed oil has a regenerative effect on the superficial skin layers and helps reduce scars.

 

Invigorating Activity

Rosehip oil also has a stimulating effect on the deepest skin cell layers, fibroblasts and cells that produce collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid (Kasayama S et al, 1994; www.elcuerpo.es/01_rosamosqueta.php).

 

Photo-Ageing Preventive And Corrective Activity

Rosehip seed oil has shown beneficial effects on photoaged skin. Therefore, rosehip seed oil is recommended to prevent and correct photoaging and skin disorders caused by UV radiation, as well as to reduce skin spots.

 

Bibliography

Camacho F, Moreno JC, Conejo-Mir JS, Bueno J. Tratamiento de cicatrices y defectos postquirúrgicos con aceite puro de semilla de rosa mosqueta (Treatment of scars and post-surgical defects with pure oil of rosa mosqueta seed). Med. cutan. ibero-latino-am., 1994; 22 (1): 23-30. 

Camacho F. Tratamiento de las cicatrices de acné con aceite de rosa mosqueta (Treatment of acne scars with musk rose oil). Med. cutan. ibero-latino-am., 1994; 22 (3): 137-142. 

Concha J, Soto C, Chamy R, Zúñiga ME. Effect of Rosehip Extraction Process on Oil and Defatted Meal Physicochemical Properties. JAOCS, 2006; 83 (9): 771-775. 

Council of Europe. Plants in cosmetics. Volume II. Germany: Council of Europe Publishing, 2001; p:133- 134 (68*1 ANT). Information sourced from various bibliographical information and websites. Biocosmetic is not liable for any medical claims or traditional uses reproduced in this document. Biocosmetic – 6, rue du grand chêne 78830 Bonnelles – tél. : (+33)1 30 88 49 18 info@biocosmethic.com – www.biocosmethic.com Page 6/6

Further scientifically relevant research: